Vanessa’s Provence: Chapter I

Provence is where I feel at home. My father is from Nîmes, and the scents and colors of the South of France flow through my veins. My mother lives in a small village near Avignon, and whenever I have time, I jump on a train to visit her. There, I feel protected, inspired, and transported. Every summer I settle in Camargue, in a house I've been renting for years, which has become our family retreat. I love everything about Provence: its land, its art, its people, its food, and its wine!

Vanessa’s travel guide, in collaboration with Milk Décoration magazine, is a personal collection of wonderful friendships and shared passions. Each address is an ode to the Provencal art de vivre, beauty in its rawest state, and simple pleasures. Have a great vacation!

The Alyscamps
Elysian Fields in Provencal, a resting place for the virtuous dead in Greek mythology, the Alyscamps are a necropolis in Arles that dates back to the Ancient Romans. Nowadays, it's a breath of fresh air and greenery to be enjoyed whenever possible.

"It's inconceivable to go to Arles without seeing this element of local history. It's a beautiful place, which reveals a different aspect of the city. It reminds me of the monastery tours I used to go on with my mother when I was little."

Le Galoubet

From his early days, working for women's magazines, and his time in Vietnam, Frank Arribart brings to the legendary Le Galoubet restaurant the importance of sharing and the essence of friendly, local cuisine. The former private townhouse in the heart of Arles' historic city center welcomes guests by the fireplace in winter and under the shade in the summer. 

18, rue du Docteur Fanton, Arles, 13200

Vague gallery

“It’s an incredible space, a gallery and café all at once, created by designers Fanny Pellegrin (discover her profile in our Women of Provence article) and Teruhiro Yanagihara. I know the city well, I am delighted that places like this are flourishing. This space curates beautiful artwork, design objects, and textiles that inspire me”.

14, rue de Grille, Arles,13200

L’Arlatan

Already acknowledged as the most sumptuous townhouse in Arles during the Middle Ages, L'Arlatan is nestled in the historic heart of the city, just a few meters away from the Place du Forum, the arena, the Roman amphitheater, and the Church of Saint-Trophime. Renovated a few years ago in the vision of artist Jorge Pardo, the Arlatan is now an explosion of color, light, and contemporary design, spreading over a gigantic mosaic of more than 6,000 m2. Everything there is comfortable and inspiring, calm and good. Magnolia and cypress trees surround the multicolored swimming pool, creating a peaceful atmosphere 

20, rue du Sauvage, Arles, 13200

Jeanne Bayol
Here Jeanne Bayol (discover her profile in our Women of Provence article), a true and enlightened Provencal, has created more than a store. She has built and imagined an actual destination. What began as a gallery has become a selection of Jeanne's finest finds from India, Provence, and the Mediterranean. Alongside a wonderful selection of textiles and her unique clothing creations, Jeanne showcases the sunny artwork by her father, Joseph Bayol.  She shares her passion for travel trailers and Provencal cuisine. A pop-up store in the heart of Saint Rémy adds to this cosmopolitan address. 

24C Avenue Albin Gilles, ZAC de la gare, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, 13210

Pampa 
“A store I love, with very affordable products. There you'll find both items imported from South America - hence the name, Pampa - and 100% local products, such as Provencal weavings to hang on the wall, large natural straw hats or baskets, which I find irresistible.”
Pampa stands out for its ability to combine Parisian style with Provence’s warm atmosphere. Honoring the craftsmanship and know-how of local Tunisian and Provencal artisans, Delphine selects contemporary design objects in a minimalist style, chic and original pieces infused with the Provencal sun. We particularly like the Van Palma hats, the Antidote candles, and the lovely tunics designed by Éric Bergère, former art director for Hermès.

5, rue de Nostradamus, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, 13210

Souleiado Museum 

The Souleiado museum, an icon of Provencal "art de vivre", opens its doors for a journey full of exceptional colors, prints, and patchwork. You'll marvel at the private collections, the original cotton printing workshop, and the archives that continue to inspire the greatest fashion designers. This museum plays an important role in the protection, conservation, and transmission of Provencal culture and traditions.

“I discovered the museum when I did my capsule collection with the Maison Souleiado. I felt like I was in Ali Baba's cave, surrounded by tablecloths, quilts, and shirts in the Provencal print I used to wear as a little girl. I was deeply inspired by this unique environment and know-how that belongs only to them.”

39, rue Charles Deméry, Tarascon, 13150

Hotel Cacharel

“I have many wonderful memories in this place - staying there with my family when I was younger, a friend's wedding… - but I hadn't been back for about 15 years. It's still a very authentic, family-style place. There you truly are in Camargue."

A place out of time, originally home to itinerant cavalrymen gone mad with solitude. The setting for the film "White Mane", a depiction of Camargue and its immensities, between sky and earth, winds and sands, covered in water, home to white horses, black bulls, pink flamingos, and free-spirited children, has enchanted generations of vacationers. Simplicity is the ultimate luxury.

Route de Cacharel, Les Saintes Maries de la Mer, 13460

Relais du Castelet
Nestled just outside Fontvieille, on the road leading to Arles, the Relais du Castelet is a charming stopover loaded with history. The golden light of Provence shines on this former hunting lodge. The thick stone walls, silent witnesses to the stories of the past, create a rustic yet refined atmosphere.

Mas de Castelet, quartier Montmajour, Fontvieille, 13990

Photography by Martin Bruno